New Jersey Merlot

Merlot is the second most planted red grape in the United States (Cabernet Sauvignon being the first). The dark blue colored Merlot is often mistaken in blind tastings for Cabernet Sauvignon because they are closely related. In France, Merlot, with its primary partners (Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) comprise arguably the most sought after wines in the world-Bordeaux Blends. However, today Merlot is still recovering from a steep drop off in sales due to “the Sideways Effect.” Sideways was a cult favorite among wine enthusiasts, starring Paul Giamotti (if you have not seen it, you should definitely rent it). Paul Giamotti’s character, Miles is obsessed with Pinot Noir and is extremely disdainful of Merlot. (“If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I’m not drinking any f****** Merlot”). A study showed that in the first few years after the movie was released (2005) sales were off by about 2%, while sales for Pinot Noir were up by 16%.

In New Jersey, Merlot is planted and produced as a stand alone variety, as well as a “blending grape.” Due to its softer, less tannic quality it can smooth a wine that may be a bit rough around the edges. Having said that Merlot presents some challenges for growers-it does best on hilly or elevated vineyards (in a state famous for its flat terrain). Merlot’s growing season is also longer than a number of other grapes such as Cabernet Franc (a grape that New Jersey has had much more success with).

Amalthea Cellars Farm Winery is best known for its Bordeaux Style blends, making some very memorable and highly rated blends. For instance, they recently received a 97 point rating and glowing review from the Beverage Tasting Institute for the Amalthea Cellars 2015 Legend’s Edition Europa I. This was the highest rating BTI gave to a wine in 2018 (out of more than 8,400 reviews). Several of Amalthea’s other Europa Legends Bordeaux style blends have also garnered high scores and critical acclaim, as did their 2015 Merlot Reserve (91 points). Unfortunately, I have not tasted this Merlot, though I have tasted The Legend’s Europa I and it deserves all the hoopla!

Of the New Jersey Merlots that I have tried recently my favorites include:

• Working Dog Winery Estate Bottled Merlot-delicious notes of black cherry and velvety tannins
• Ventimiglia Vineyard 2010 New Jersey Merlot – An amazing wine, aged in oak for over 30 months!; this was probably my favorite New Jersey Merlot, but unfortunately it is sold out!
• Tomasello Winery 2014 Palmaris Outer Coastal Plain Merlot Reserve-The Palmaris version of their Merlot is more full-bodied than some and very good
• Old York Cellars 2017 Merlot-Very smooth, medium boded and very reasonably priced
• Laurita Winery 2014 Merlot-(they are presently out of stock of their Merlot)
• Cape May Vineyards 2016 Merlot-Silky smooth and very reasonable
• William Heritage Winery 2014 and 2015 Outer Coastal Plains Merlot-I preferred the 2015 version, which took a little longer to open up, but quickly smoothed; I would think enough structure to cellar for a few years (if you are the patient type)
• Brook Hollow Winery 2014 Merlot-one of my favs here
• White Horse Winery Merlot Reserve*-A wonderful, full-bodied version bursting with black cherry and using California grapes

*Technically, this one can’t be called a NJ Merlot, as the fruit came from California. However, it was made by Seferino Cotzojay at White Horse Winery and it is awesome, so I included it here.

Personally, I hope New Jersey wineries continue to make Merlot. While the above list contains my recent favorites, there are another dozen or so worth checking out (Natali Vineyards, Jessie Creek Winery, DiMatteo Vineyards, Autumn Lake Winery and Salem Oak Vineyards just to name a few).

Cheers!

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